15 feb 2025
Well, it’s time to start the new travelogue. First real trip of 2025 begins today. There have been a few little things in Italy (Bologna and Assisi), but they felt more like day trips. I had wanted to stay in Italy for a full three months and immerse myself in the language, settle into a routine and get to know the community at San Gregorio and the neighborhood, which I have been doing with a lot of pleasure. They have been full wonderful days, lots of “appointments” (though I try to never have more than one a day), and I usually walk to them to get to know the city better. (Clocking in about 5-7 miles a day.) A nice daily routine for meals and prayers with the brothers, who have been super. Lots of work at my desk, and my room winds up being a very fine office. Always something to do.
But my “boss” (I need to find another term for him), Abbot Primate Jeremias, suggested I come to India for this meeting and since it was the first thing he asked me to do and I am very devoted to my Indian brothers and sisters, here I am on my way to the 50th anniversary meeting of the Indo-Sri Lankan Benedictine Confederation near Bengaluru, India. I just need to make an appearance on Monday, but Friday I am presiding and preaching at morning Mass, and then giving a full presentation on “Our Role and Response to Interreligious Dialogue.” I’ve worked really hard on the talk, hoping to use it for other gatherings, and of course writing always helps me clarify my own thoughts. But doing this in India is totally like preaching to the choir, though I hear that it is not foremost in a lot of people’s minds any more. I shall find out! I will make the talk available after I deliver it Friday. At least Dorathick and Pinto will be there from Shantivanam as well, and we are going to slip out on Thursday for a day visit with our old friend Jyoti Sahi.
I can now say that I have been to Saudi Arabia. The most economic ticket I could find was with Saudia Air, through Jeddah. I didn’t realize that Jeddah is so close to Mecca and is actually the arrival point for the hajj. I was very moved by the PA system and screens on the back of our seats playing an invocation before we took off, a prayer that the Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him) is reported to have said before every journey. And the entertainment offerings were interrupted regularly by announcements for the time for the next salat. About three hours into the four and a half hour flight I suddenly started to notice men dressed in white and sandals, and then I realized that there was a whole line of guys going to the bathroom in street clothes and then emerging a few minutes later draped in white. That included a rather sullen looking young man, maybe 18 years old max, sitting right across the aisle from me up one row, who disappeared into the bathroom with a shopping bag and then didn’t come out for like a half an hour. I was actually getting nervous. Later, as we were taking the transit bus from the plane to the terminal, I noticed him checking his reflection out satisfyingly in the window of the bus. I remembered Ram Dass’ reading of the Kabir poem, “I started wearing burlap \ but I still toss it elegantly over my shoulder” which I think of every time I put on the khavi robes in India.
Feb 17, from Asirvanam, Bengaluru
The second leg of the flight was a little rougher. I had a great seat in the bulkhead, with only two seats in the row and no one to my left. At first. But then, about an hour into the flight a very large man came and sat in the seat to my left, though “violating my air space” by a good bit with his legs and arms. I was trying to be polite and I think for the most part I succeeded. We took off at 2 AM, and for some reason they decided to serve a meal at about 4 AM. Negotiating balancing a meal on a little tray while squeezed into ¾ of my own seat was a little uncomfortable. And there was a lot of turbulence. The large gentleman also tried sitting on the floor in the bulkhead and got corrected by the steward. Then he sat in the steward’s own jump seat, and got corrected again. Eventually he got really lucky, and the steward, taking pity either on him or on himself, put him in a seat in business class. We landed a little early and everyone rushed to the front ASAP. Hard to describe it, but I was trying to negotiate a little space to get my things out of the overhead and I wound up cracking my head against the underside of the bins, which got several of my fellow passengers and the kindly steward very worried (I was bleeding from the scalp). He dug into his own carry-on a pulled a sanitary wipe out for me. Very sweet. I was rarely so relieved to get off a plane.
Another monk from Rome, an Indian who I had met two weeks back named Fr. Shoriaih, was arriving around the same time as I and was to arrange a taxi for us to Asirvanam. I got in about a half hour before him, and with all the passport check and baggage etc. he had to go through, I had about an hour to myself before he arrived. There was a nice little café and I treated myself to a masala chai, fresh squeezed orange juice and a big yummy granola bar, which was a nice respite. And then the long drive across town. I was just here a year ago and had already been shocked at how much growth there had been in the intervening 12 years or so since I had last come to Bangalore, but this time we drove from one end of the city to the extreme other side and it took us well over an hour. And I was in for another shock. I had been here to Asirvanam monastery some years ago (maybe 2006?) with George when he was prior of Shantivanam, but now I hardly recognized the place and was beginning doubt if I ever had been here after all. But I was assured it was the same place, but under the present prior, Fr Jerome, it has expanded exponentially. He apparently spent seven years at St John’s in Minnesota and I don’t think they were just kidding when the other monks said that he came home wanting to turn this place into another Collegeville, and he has done it in the last decade. There is a school, the Benedictine Academy––and if I got this right it goes from grade school all the way to college. There as also two boys’ and girls’ hostels. I didn’t catch everything, but suffice it say it is thriving little town now.
As I mentioned this is a meeting of the Indo-Sri Lankan Benedictine Federation, as a matter of fact their 50th anniversary. It is mainly for the superiors but the first day was open to any and all comers. Our first event was over on the campus of the school. If you know anything about an Indian wedding––a huge production usually with a stage and lots of lights and music and ceremony––that was what the scene was like. It was also the annual cultural day for the academy, and we were the guests of honor. We sat in the front row of hundreds of people and those of us who were guests of honor were first called to stage by name to receive the traditional shawl and a large necklace. And then the show began. It was recorded music and live dance, highlighting various countries in the world, all performed by what looked to be for the most part grade school kids. Elaborate costumes and lots of choreography. They must have put in an enormous amount of work. The only problem was it was so loud. I know that Indians always have the music playing loud, often not even noticing that it is distorted in the speakers, but this was the loudest I have ever heard music––and I mean ever. And that includes many high powered rock concerts. I could barely hear out of my left ear afterward.
I am among the guests of honor, to my slight discomfort, as Secretary General of DIMMID, along with the abbot primate, the head of ISBF, the two abbot presidents who are here, Sr. Lynn who is the head of the women’s Benedictine confederation, the local prior, and Abbot Bernard of Belgium who is the head of AIM. That means I am often getting whisked up to places of honor (the head table in the refectory where one gets served), up on the dias at that event and then again this morning at our opening ceremony where more shawls and necklaces were given out, this time with the addition of a head piece and a commemorative desk piece (with my picture on it from 25 years ago). I am nowhere near tracking the names of all the nuns and monks and the various communities let alone the various congregations represented here. But almost everyone says, “You must come and visit.” They all of course know each other from this annual meeting but I am a bit of a fish out of water. After lunch there was a bus tour of some of Asirvanam’s other land holdings, and then we finally got down to business late this afternoon with a wonderful presentation by the Abbot Primate.
+Jeremias really is an impressive guy, with a command of languages, an ease in negotiating all kinds of public appearances he is called to make, and on top of that a clear and interesting speaker. He laid out a bit of what is going on in the confederation and then left us with something to dream about. There is going to be a jubilee year for the Benedictines in 2029, 1500 years. After his presentation he wanted us to talk a bit about it amongst ourselves––how to commemorate the anniversary but even more importantly, for my taste, to ask ourselves about what Benedictine monasticism has to offer the world. My thoughts went immediately––and I mean immediately––to “we have no idea what kind of world will be living in in three or four years.” The new administration is in the process of upending the global world order. How much more empowered will aggressive leaders be? How much more empowered will the so-called “far right” be? What will the world boundaries look like in 2029? Will there be an even greater struggle for the soul of Christianity than the one that is already heating up? (I sure hope so.) I told +Jeremias afterward that it feels like my own work in interreligious dialogue is all a part of that, tearing down walls, building bonds of friendship, educating and forming through encounters (and music).